Cape Clear Diaries (3): A Silent Island Speaks

contrast between sea and land in South Harbour, Cape Clear

South Harbour

May 11th, 2013

In the peace and tranquility of an almost deserted island, it’s easier to watch the environment and hear what it’s trying to say. These are a few things that have struck me on Cape Clear over the last few days:

  • Abandoned buoys flailed in the water, flung mercilessly by the frothing sea.
  • The East Harbour’s milky tide crept upon the rocky beach, until only the whisper of a rock could be discerned deep below the undulating water.
  • Amidst the long wavy grasses and spongey moss, vetch and seapinks, briars and monbretia that line the rocks, bees fed and walked aimlessly, as though oblivious to the harsh wind.
  • Nothing on an island can be certain; in the east the wind rages, with angry white horses for waves. In the south, the water is calm and glistening, like no wind has ever touched its beauty.
  • Cape Clear graveyard overlooking South Harbour

    A harbinger with a story to tell

    A boat called Atlantic Freedom tugged at its moorings, riled and determined.

  • As the wind calmed, the buoys on the side of the big, orange ferry swung restlessly, as though eager to crash against the waves of the turbulent Atlantic.
  • The turquoise sea suddenly turned petrol-grey as a thick cloud covered the sun. Combined with the wind, speeding shadows crossed the land, making two fishermen quickly haul their shrimp pots as though fearful of some giant beast’s arrival, ready to swallow them whole, boat and all.
  • Huge Celtic cross tombstones in the graveyard overlooks the harbour like a warning to always respect the sea.
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